The Edge of the knowledge Thu, 14 Jan 2021 04:27:36 +0000 en-US hourly 1 32 32 How to draw & paint faster Thu, 29 Oct 2020 06:37:16 +0000 Some students – even those who are dedicated and hard-working – find it to work at the pace required in a Visual Art course. The skilful, perfectionist student usually falls into this category; those who produce meticulous, highly-detailed observational drawings or paintings. Parents and teachers can be unsure how to provide practical, positive strategies for improvement. This article lists fifteen ways that a high school Art student can work faster, without compromising the quality of their work.

1. Use a ground

There are many benefits to working on a ground. One of these is increased painting or drawing speed. A ground covers a painting or drawing surface from the outset. It can act as mid-tone, with only black and white used to apply dark and light areas or be left partially visible in the final work. This results in an artwork that is much faster to complete (see our article about painting on grounds for more information).

An A Level Art portrait by Mariam Shafei-Sabett from Dame Alice Owen’s School, Hertfordshire, England and a teaching exemplar from Amiria Robinson.

2. Incorporate mixed media /patterned surfaces / textural elements

As with using a ground, patterned, decorative or textural items can cover areas of an artwork quickly. Although this strategy should be used with care, selecting only materials which support or enhance your project (usually with reference to a relevant artist model) this can be a great way to speed up your project and introduce creative use.

3. Work on several pieces at once

Working in series – completing several paintings or drawings at one time – is a very helpful strategy for Art students. This speeds work up for a number of reasons:

  • A single colour can be used throughout a number of works, without needing to stop for remixing / washing brushes
  • While one work is drying, another one can be worked on
  • Similar processes or techniques can be mastered quickly and repeated on subsequent works

In addition, when working on several pieces at once, ‘preciousness’ about the work tends to be lost, leading to more experimentation and greater work speed.

4. Paint things in the right order – background areas first

Painting things in an illogical order is surprisingly common amongst high school Art students. In almost all cases, the background should be completed first, followed by the middle-ground, ending with the foreground. This is easily understood when considering a tree in front of a cloudy sky. If you make of painting the tree first, the sky has to be meticulously painted around every leaf and branch: an irritating task that takes hours (and ends up looking a little shabby). Painting the sky first, however, means that a large brush can quickly be used to paint the sky, with the tree then easily added over the top. Painting in the correct order also results in a painting that has layers (which gives it a richness and lustre, as with using a ground). If you find that subsequent layers of paint do not adequately cover earlier ones, you have an inferior brand of paint. (We will detail our paint and art supply recommendations in an upcoming article – stay tuned)!

Note: Once you understand how to build up a painting in layers, you will realise that often this involves drawing items in stages also.

Awesome Art Paper for Painting Students Thu, 29 Oct 2020 06:18:40 +0000 This article provides guidance for teachers who need to equip a classroom for high school Painting / Fine Art students – or for students who wish to purchase their own art supplies, ensuring that they are well-prepared for their high school Art course. Papers and other materials are recommended by Amiria Robinson, an experienced teacher of Cambridge IGCSE and A Level Art & Design.

General Purpose Drawing and Painting Papers

Wet Strength Cartridge Paper 130gsm

This is a standard cartridge paper, suitable for almost all drawing and painting exercises. It is suitable for wet and dry mediums, sketches, composition plans and quick exploratory exercises. An ample supply should be available for students in A3 and A2 sizes.

Wet Strength Cartridge Paper 180gsm

A sturdier and heavier weight paper than above, this is suitable for almost all drawing and painting exercises. It is especially useful for important artworks or those which require a heavier, stronger painting surface. (A1 sheets are also suitable for mounting preparatory work on if posting away for assessment). An ample supply of this paper should be available in A3 size.

Wet Strength Cartridge Paper 230gsm

This strong and heavy paper provides a sturdy base to work over and is suitable for supporting textural elements within a painting. Erasing lines can disturb the surface on this paper, so it is less useful for graphite drawings (however producing a rendered drawing on this paper is possible if an eraser is not used). This paper is typically used by students for final pieces and important preparatory artworks. An ample supply of this paper should be available for students, although its use may need to be monitored to minimise wastage (this paper is more expensive than the two above).

Supplementary papers, cardboard and other painting or drawing Surfaces

In addition to the papers described above, the following materials (or their equivalent) should be available in smaller quantities. These materials are used in whole sheets for individual artworks or are torn into smaller pieces to use for mixed media backgrounds in sketchbook pages or artwork.

Kraft Paper

This is the same paper that is used to make brown paper bags. It is great for using as a mid-tone in charcoal drawings. A relatively inexpensive paper, this is best purchased in a thicker weight (i.e. 140gms) and in A3 reams.

Black Drawing Cartridge

Useful for dry mediums, such as white charcoal, this is an essential paper for students to experiment with. A light weight paper is usually all that is needed for dry drawing mediums, however, heavier papers such as black Malmero paper, 145gsm, or Stonehenge are also available. (Note: Do not use black sugar paper – this lightens rapidly when exposed to sunlight).

Watercolour Paper, such as Fabriano 200gsm

Only a few sheets of this paper are needed, so that students can experiment using watercolours and other liquid mediums (unless, of course, students are specialising in water colours – in which case much more is needed)!

Assorted Textured Papers

Handmade papers have beautiful textures and are great for incorporating within paintings. It is also also possible to purchase assorted packs of machine-made textured papers which are very useful.

Art Sketchbook Ideas: Creative Examples Thu, 29 Oct 2020 05:26:41 +0000 What is a high school art sketchbook?

A sketchbook is a creative document that contains both written and visual material. It may include teacher-guided sketchbook assignments or self-directed investigation. A sketchbook provides a place to think through the making process: researching, brainstorming, experimenting, testing, analysing and refining compositions. It offers a place to document the journey towards a final solution, providing a depth and backstory to the accompanying work. The sketchbook is an important part of many visual art.

Sketchbook format

For convenience, most students select a sketchbook that is A4 or A3 (297 x 420 millimeters / 11.7 x 16.5 inches) in size. An A4 sketchbook fits within school bags and is less likely during transit. An A3 sketchbook fits more work per page and provides space for larger individual artworks. If a sketchbook is to contain all of the preparatory material submitted (without larger accompanying sheets of developmental work), an A2 sketchbook may be appropriate. Often this decision is set by a qualification, teacher or school. Non-conventional sizes and electronic submissions may also be possible.

Regardless of the format, work primarily in portrait or landscape orientation, rather than alternating from page-to-page (consistent orientation makes it easier for an examiner to flip through the pages and view the work). If electronic submission is required, horizontal pages are preferable, as these display better upon a computer screen.

Four possible sketchbook formats are summarized below. These are just a few of the options available (these may not be appropriate for all examination boards).

Pre-bound sketchbooks

It is essential that pre-bound sketchbooks used by art students contain quality artist paper, suitable for both wet and dry mediums (ideally 110gsm or greater). Different paper types may be glued to pages as required. A minimal appearance is optimal: choose a sketchbook with a plain cover, absent of distracting logos and ornamentation. Consider whether a spiral spine is desired, allowing removal of pages without difficulty. The primary disadvantage of a pre-bound sketchbook is that it is difficult to use wet mediums upon several pages in one session (working concurrently across pages saves time, aids the development of ideas and facilitates connections between pieces). Nonetheless, pre-bound sketchbooks are the most common format of sketchbook used.

Two examples of pre-bound sketchbooks are illustrated below. These brands have been thoroughly tested in a classroom situation, by experienced teachers.

Loose sheets of paper presented within a plastic clear-file

This method can be less daunting than using a pre-bound sketchbook, as there is no fear of ‘ruining’ a page. Creating a sketchbook from loose sheets allows easy integration of different paper types, encouraging a broad range of media. You can easily work on different pages at once, without waiting for work to dry. On the other hand, loose sheets may become and misplaced. Displaying work within transparent sleeves also hinders the view ability of surface quality and texture. Finally, if work is posted away for assessment, the clear-file adds unnecessary bulk and shipping weight. If choosing this method of presentation, you may wish to use an inexpensive clear-file for the duration of the course, shifting to a clean, non-reflective presentation display book immediately before assessment.

Line Drawing: A Guide for Art Students Thu, 29 Oct 2020 05:10:10 +0000 When we first picked up a pen or pencil and started making marks on paper, we began with line. Whether self-taught, through trial, or guided by others, we learned how line defines form, creates structure, divides a frame, traces contour, creates tonal variation (cross-hatching, for example) and leads the eye from one part of a work to another. Initially a mechanism for getting outlines onto paper – identifying edges – we begin to applaud lines for their own merit: celebrate their presence whether a quiet flick of charcoal on paper or a streak of graphite.

This article contains exercises for Art students who wish to produce contour line drawings, cross contour drawings, blind drawings and other types of line drawings. It is a teaching aid for high school Art students and includes classroom activities.

Blind Contour Drawing

Definition : A blind contour drawing contains lines that are drawn without ever looking at the piece of paper. This forces you to study a scene closely, observing every shape and edge with your eyes, as your hand mimics these on paper. The aim is not to produce a realistic artwork, but rather to strengthen the connection between eyes, hand and brain: a reminder that, when drawing, you must first learn to see.

Blind Drawing Exercises : Blind drawing is an excellent way to start a high school Fine Art programme. Drawing wobbly lines that bear little resemblance to the chosen object is relaxing and stress-free. Often, a classroom bubbles with laughter at the unexpected results. Blind drawing stretches the arms and soul; eases you into observational drawing without fear.

Gesture Drawing / Timed Drawing / Movement Drawing

Definition : A gesture drawing is completed quickly – often in short timed durations, such as 20, 30, 60 or 90 seconds – using fast, expressive lines. Gesture drawings capture basic forms and proportions – the emotion and essence of a subject – without focusing on detail. Due to their rapid completion, they are a great way to record movement and action, as well as increase your drawing speed, confidence and intuitive mark-making skill. Gesture drawings are best completed with smooth, easily applied mediums (chunky graphite pencils, charcoal sticks, pastels, soft brushes dipped in ink, for example), without the use of an eraser. They are often completed on large, inexpensive sheets of paper, where you can move your arm fluidly, be bold with mark-making, and not worry about. As with blind drawings, gesture drawing is an ideal warm-up activity.

Gesture Drawing Exercises : When you begin investigating your subject matter in the initial phase of a high school Art programme, it can be helpful to make several first-hand gestural drawings. The best of these can be selected for your final portfolio (taking advantage of a photocopier or digital camera to reduce in size, if necessary). A small still life scene can be depicted just as easily as a large moving form.

Continuous Line Drawing

Definition : A continuous line drawing is produced without ever lifting the drawing instrument from the page. This means that, in addition to outlines and internal shapes, the pencil must move back and forth across the surface of the paper, with lines doubling back on each other, so that the drawing is one free-flowing. To avoid the temptation to erase lines, it can be helpful to complete a continuous line drawing with an ink pen, varying the line weight, as needed, to indicate perspective and areas of light and shadow. Like the drawing methods described above, this drawing method develops confidence and drawing speed, and encourages your eyes and hand and brain to work together. Continuous line drawings work best with in-depth observation of your subject, without interference from your thinking mind. According to Smithsonian Studio Arts:

SCRAP FABRIC TWINE RECYCLED CHRISTMAS ORNAMENTS Thu, 29 Oct 2020 04:33:26 +0000 Don’t throw away your old mismatched Christmas tree baubles. I’ve got a great up cycling idea that will not only give your Christmas tree a new eco-friendly makeover, it will use up your leftover fabric scraps as well – Scrap Fabric Twine Recycled Christmas Ornaments!

In the past I’ve sewn it into a mat, woven a chair seat with it, made an upcycled planter with it, and used it for Christmas gift wrapping. The creative possibilities are endless.

My scrap twine baubles are multi coloured as I like to mix up my fabric scraps when I’m making this fabric rope. But if you have a specific colour scheme that you prefer, you can make the twine in the colours of your choosing.

I’ve made some festive themed red and white ‘candy cane’ twine in this tutorial that would look very striking for this recycled Christmas ornament project.

The beauty of these recycled Christmas ornaments is that they can be made from materials and supplies that you already have at home (and in all likely hood were headed to the bin). Any old bauble will do.

It’s more than likely that you have a few scuffed up, cracked or mismatched ball ornaments sitting at the bottom of your decoration box. Here’s a chance to give them a new lease on life!

If you haven’t got any old baubles laying around, pop into your local thrift store. They sell old decorations by the bagful at this time of year, and because the colours and textures don’t really matter, you can purchase them for a song.

These recycled Christmas ornaments would make great gifts for crafty friends.

Why not get a group of friends together for a recycled ornament making Crafter noon It’s a great way to get into the festive spirit, and don’t forget to bring along some tasty treats to enjoy.

How to make Scrap Fabric Twine Recycled Christmas Ornaments

You will need:

  • Scrap fabric twine – get recycled twine making instructions here
  • Old Christmas baubles – either plastic or glass is fine
  • Hot glue gun and 2-3 Glue sticks per bauble
  • Scissors
  • Cord or ribbon (optional)

Caution: Hot glue can burn so please be careful. If you get hot glue on your skin run it under cold water immediately.

I seem to burn myself every time I use hot glue and this project was no exception! Behold my blistered thumb!

Note on using plastic baubles: Some plastic baubles may melt or deform a little due to the heat of the glue. I found that all of the ones I used were fine except for the clear plastic bauble . The clear plastic shrunk a little when it was heated, but it wasn’t noticeable as the texture of the twine disguised it.

If you find your plastic baubles are a little bit ‘melty’, just use a minimal amount of glue as you may melt a hole right through the plastic. I had no issues with the harder plastic or glass baubles.

1. Starting from the top of the bauble, closest to the hanging cap, add a small bead of hot glue.

2. Working quickly and taking care not to get glue on your fingers, glue the fabric twine around the cap. Continue in a spiral fashion down the bauble.

3. Work in small sections at a time as the hot glue cools and sets quickly.

4. Hold the twine down firmly until the glue just sets, then move onto the next section.

5. Try to ensure there are no gaps between the twine or the bauble underneath will show.

6. Continue wrapping scrap fabric twine around the bauble till the whole ball is covered.

UP CYCLE STYLE: SUITCASE DOLLHOUSE Thu, 29 Oct 2020 04:16:58 +0000 If you have an old suitcases collecting dust in the shed or under the bed, it’s time to dust it off and get re-purposing.

Old suitcases really lend themselves to fun up cycling projects. I’ve used my imagination and turned this old suitcase into something really cool that any kid will love!

Time to make a Suitcase Dollhouse!

I’ve been looking for an old dollhouse for Emma without any luck, so turning an old case into her own mini doll mansion was the perfect project.

You’ll only need some basic tools to make this dollhouse. If you don’t have any scrap wood laying around, try using strong cardboard instead. It can be taped rather than screwed in place.

You will need:

  • An old hard shell suitcase
  • 2-3 wood pieces to size (width x depth of case) I’ve used some old narrow shelving.
  • Screws and screwdriver
  • Blackboard paint and paintbrush
  • Chalk
  • Decorative paper, and felt (optional)
  • Doll house furniture

How to make a dollhouse from a suitcase:

1. Clean your suitcase thoroughly, vacuum out the inside and give the exterior a wipe with a damp cloth.

2. Measure the interior of the case to determine the size of your wood inserts = width x depth of bottom of case.

3. Wood to size, you may need to round off back corners if your case has curved edges. I’ve chosen 3 inserts (4 floors)as Emma’s dolls are small, but for larger dolls you may only need 2 inserts (3 floors).

4. Screw in inserts from the outside of the case.

5. Give the exterior 2 coats of Chalkboard paint. Follow manufacturers instructions for drying times between coats.

6. Time to decorate the interior. I added some felt on the lower floor as carpet but liked the look of the hardwood floors on the other levels. You can add decorative papers on the walls, be as creative as you like. I actually left the original lining paper exposed as the house’s wall paper as it was my favourite part of the case. It’s why I bought it in the first place.

7. Rather than cutting out holes for windows and doors, I’ve drawn the house facade on with chalk. You can just wipe it off and change it’s look whenever you like. It’s a great way for kids to get creative and design their own house.

8. Fill it with little furniture. We found some of these items at the op-shop and made others out of bits and pieces we had at home.

And the beauty of this Doll house is that it’s portable. When you are finished playing, it’s totally portable and can travel with you wherever you go. I hope I’ve inspired you. Now it’s your turn to get creative with an old suitcase.

EASTER CRAFT: MINI BUNNY DOLL A CUTE Wed, 28 Oct 2020 12:31:04 +0000 It’s the time of year where bunnies are hopping up everywhere, and it’s understandable because they are just so dang cute! Today I’m showing you how to make a Mini Bunny Doll, a fun little Easter craft project that makes the perfect little Easter gift or decoration.

Fun to make from just a few felt scraps this cute bunny doll was inspired by a book from my childhood. When I was a little girl one of my favourite picture books was The Big Bunny and the Magic. It was ordered from a book club catalogue in the lead up to Easter. I so adored this book. For me it was about the moody illustrations.

After reading this book I developed empathy for the adorable, but weary Easter Bunny, whom wanted and was infuriatingly sabotaged by his friends.

The book stealthily disappeared from my bookshelf, along with childhood. Nonetheless, a warm place in my heart persists for both the Easter Bunny and this book. After all, how could I not love an animal that leaves edible brown plops around the house?

You will need:

  • Felt sheets or scraps – peach for body and bright colour for hair
  • Cotton fabric scraps
  • Sewing Thread – contrasting colour
  • Hobby fill or fiber for stuffing
  • Sewing Needle
  • Scissors – both paper and fabric
  • Fabric marker pen
  • Haemostat or tweezers
  • Dressmakers pins
  • Marker pens


You may wish to turn this bunny doll into a brooch or charm . In which case just sew a safety pin onto the back to make a brooch, or add a small elastic loop into the top of the head to make a hanging charm.

You could give the bunny doll a home, by pairing it with another gorgeous Le Papier Apartment Printable Paper Doll House.

How to:

1. Print template at 100% and the pattern pieces.

2. Place the pattern pieces into three colour groupings. Hair and shoes together; Shirt and skirt together; Body and ears together.

3. Lay the pattern pieces on the felt sheets and draw outlines, as per the pattern notes.

4. The felt pieces.

5. Lay the shirt, hair and shoes on the two body pieces and stitch along the inside edges as per the illustrated reference guide.

6. Sew the facial details, using a plain stitch. Refer to the body pattern piece reference.

7. Mirror the ear pieces next to each other and fold closed. Stitch the two ears closed at the base.

8. Layer the body pieces together (right sides outward), and pin. Blanket-stitch (or whip stitch) along the outside edge of the body. Keep the top of the head open.

9. Stuff the body with hobby fill. Using a haemostat or tweezers will make so much easier.

10. Slip the ears into the top of the head. Stitch the head opening closed.

11. Sew an ornamental leg division, with one long stitch looping at the base of the body.

12. Layer the skirt pieces together and blanket-stitch the sides together.

13. Run a plain-stitch along the top edge of the skirt. Then gently pull the thread, gathering the skirt.

14. Slip the skirt onto the body. Tie off the gathered thread ends. Stitch the skirt onto the body, feeding the needle through the entire body. Now your doll is complete.

HOW TO: FRENCH TOAST EMBROIDERED BABY BIB Wed, 28 Oct 2020 10:04:39 +0000 Today’s tute comes from Nellie.

I love embroidery but haven’t ever posted an embroidery project, so when Nellie offered this cute French Toastie bib project, I couldn’t resist. She also includes some very clear diagrams to teach you the various stitches used.

One of my favourite friends is having her first baby in the next couple of months, (Maud, if your reading this – Spoiler Alert!!). I love her to bits, so I wanted to hand embroider her some baby bibs as a gift. Both the parents are French, but the newbie will be a little Aussie, so I thought one bib should have a picture of French toast and the other should have a toast triangle with Vegemite!

Today, I will show you how to transfer the French Toast template to fabric, then how to fill it in using Back Stitch, French Knots and Long and Short stitch. You can then apply a similar method to the Vegemite design.

You will need:

  • 1 plain bib (prewashed)
  • Dressmaker’s carbon paper (if your bib is a flat fabric) or tissue paper (if your fabric is fluffy like terry toweling)
  • Embroidery hoop
  • Embroidery needle
  • Embroider floss in colours: 975 (warm brown), 310 (black), Blanc (white) and 437 (camel)

How to Embroider a Baby Bib

1. Check that the size of the French Toast design is right for your bib, if not, resize it using a photocopier.

2. The template and position it on the bib. If your bib is made from a flat material like cotton, transfer the design using dress maker’s carbon paper. BUT if your bib is made from terry towelling, this method just won’t work! You’ll need to trace the template onto tissue paper then tack it to the bib around the design. If your tissue paper is a little thin, use two layers.

3. Optional – Put the bib into an embroidery hoop.

4. Following the stitch guide on the template, outline the design with Back Stitch (please scroll down for Back Stitch instructions) shorten your stitch as you go around curves. Please note: Embroidery floss is formed from six floss strands, you only need three for this project. A length of floss, split it in two groups of three then load your needle with one of the groups.

5. If you’ve used it, peel off the tissue paper and remove the tacking.

6. Again, following the template guide, fill in the remaining areas with Long and Short Stitch (please scroll down for Long and Short Stitch instructions).

7. Add two little French Knot pupils in the toasts eyeballs and some Back Stitch in two of the toast corners (please scroll down for French Knot instructions).

8. Neaten all loose threads at the back of the bib.

9. Take a photo of your handy work for the archives.

Following the curve of your design, create a row of alternating short and long length stitches (the ‘short’ stitch should be approx half of the ‘long’). For the following rows, use only one stitch length and start at the entry point of the stitch above (your stitches will appear long and short, but don’t be fooled!). Repeat until the area is full.

Printable Elephant Mask Craft Fri, 23 Oct 2020 09:55:31 +0000 Make an easy paper elephant mask using our printable mask templates. Wear your adorable elephant mask for various animal-themed learning activities, parties and events.


  • A4 or Letter size cardstock
  • Crayons, colored pencils or any water-based paint (e.g. tempera or acrylic paint)
  • Elastic string
  • Scissors
  • Hole punch
  • Transparent tape

Print out the mask template

Choose from any of these elephant mask templates. Print out the file on A4 or Letter size card stock.

Color the mask

If you chose the black & white mask template, color or paint all the pieces. You can use crayons, colored pencils, markers, or a water-based paint such as tempera, poster paint or acrylic paint.

Leave out the sections bordered by dotted lines—the eyes, the pair of little circles at the sides of the mask, and the tabs on the ears with the words “Glue here”.

Let the paint dry

If you painted your mask, let the paint dry completely.

Out the pieces.

Out all the pieces—the head, the pair of ears, and the trunk.

Strengthen the holes

Notice the pair of little circles on each side of the mask? These are the spots where you need to punch holes for attaching the string. Paper masks normally tear around these holes after a few uses. To reinforce these spots, put transparent tape over the marked holes and fold the tape towards the back of the mask.

Punch holes

Punch holes on the pair of little circles.

Apply glue on the tab

Take one of the elephant’s ears. Apply glue on the entire tab area.

Glue the ear behind the mask

Position the ear behind the mask, aligning the dotted line on the ear with the side of the mask.

Carefully press on the side of the mask to glue the ear in place.

Glue the other ear

Similarly glue the other ear on the opposite side of the mask.

Glue the trunk

Apply glue behind the top edge of the trunk. Glue the trunk below the elephant’s eyes.

The mouth is hidden underneath the trunk, just like a real elephant’s.

Attach a string

A length of elastic string, mine is around 16 inches. Tie the ends of the string around the holes on the sides of the mask.

Wear the mask

Try on your awesome elephant mask. It should fit snugly but not too tight. Adjust the length of the string if necessary.

SEW A SOFTIE: ZERO-WASTE GOBBLE MONSTER Fri, 23 Oct 2020 09:38:36 +0000 Ever felt like you need a little helper to clean up your craft room. Well I’ve got a simple monster doll sewing project that will not only teach your kids to sew, but gobble up all those scraps that were headed to the bin.

It’s Sew a Softie month and I’ve joined in with blogger from all over the world to create a softie for the Sew a Softie tutorial hop.

The aim of the Sew a Softie Project is to encourage non-sewing adults and children to give hand sewing a go. You can read about the Sew a Softie movement here.

How to make a Zero-Waste Gobble Monster Doll

Today I’ll show you how to make a little monster doll that loves gobbling up all sorts of scraps. He has a huge appetite and doesn’t mind eating yarn and fabric scraps that were destined for the bin!

I’ve named him the Zero-Waste Gobble Monster because you’ll literally have no waste left over after you finish him – he’ll even gobble up the scraps left over from his own production.

It wasn’t hard to find little pieces of yarn and fabric to feed this hungry fellow. I seem to have scraps of everything laying in every corner of my craft room.

As a crafter I always try to be conscious of the waste I produce when making my projects, and this my little Gobble Monster doll is a great way to start a conversation about mindful consumption with kids.

You don’t even need to use new felt to make this softie, any textile that doesn’t fray too much will work great. Old felted jumpers make great fabric for softie making.

You will need:

  • Assorted felt pieces
  • Scissors
  • Fabric Glue
  • Sewing needle
  • Strong sewing thread
  • Pins
  • Pen
  • For stuffing – Yarn, felt and fabric scraps

How to:

1. Print the pattern template at 100% and out the pattern pieces.

2. One piece of felt from each pattern piece, and 2x pieces of felt for the body pattern piece.

3. The mouth slit on the body pattern piece.

4. Lay the pattern over one of the felt body pieces and transfer the mouth placement with a pen.

5. Carefully the mouth slit in the felt piece.

6. Glue on all the face features using the pattern template as a guide. You can opt to stitch on the belly if desired.

7. Sandwich the arm, leg and hair pieces between the front and back body pieces and pin in place.

8. Stitch all the way around the body with your choice of stitch. I’ve used a simple whip stitch. Make sure you catch the back piece as you sew.

9. Now it’s time to feed your Gobble Monster lots of yummy scraps. You can use whatever you have lying around, including the pieces left over from cutting out this softie. Little scraps of yarn and felt are good, as are small scraps of fabric.

He doesn’t have to eat his scrappy dinner all at once. He can lay around your craft space catching all the little scraps that were destined for the bin.